Drill Time for Canoeing E-School

I know, I know, we need more canoe videos and books! Since my heart is in canoe paddling, I would love to do it, and will some day in the future. In the meantime, be sure you have all the current books and videos!

In addition to the links below, don't miss the entire sections on Whitewater Safety and on Reading the River.

I know, I know, we need more canoe videos and books! Since my heart is in canoe paddling, I would love to do it, and will some day in the future. In the meantime, be sure you have all the current books and videos!

Solo Playboating
Drill Time (Solo Playboating II)
Solo Playboating... The Workbook (this workbook reviews and expands on the drills presented in the videos)
The C-1 Challenge "An excellent resource"- Canoe Fun, instructional video for decked canoe paddlers, with host World Champion Kent Ford. Completely covers the advantages to C-boating, learning to roll, and outfitting for comfort. Hot play scenes and basic stroke instruction. c.1990 24 minutes

On to the canoe articles...

Tandem Simplicity

A simple set of strokes and communication concepts can provide the basis for quickly learning how to paddle a tandem canoe. When I teach, I like to emphasize simplicity, and an abbreviated set of strokes to get people out on the water and having fun quickly. A first timer learning to paddle a tandem canoe does not need to learn a comprehensive list of strokes.

A simple set of strokes and communication concepts can provide the basis for quickly learning how to paddle a tandem canoe. When I teach, I like to emphasize simplicity, and an abbreviated set of strokes to get people out on the water and having fun quickly. A first timer learning to paddle a tandem canoe does not need to learn a comprehensive list of strokes.

Many instructors theorize that the recent decline in Canoe participation relative to Kayak may come from the perceived difficulty. Canoes are a challenge for sure, with nearly endless possibilities for technique improvement, but there are easy systems for controlling the boat.

The following system of strokes works well for first timers to get a start in controlling a canoe without frantically switching hands and yelling at each other. I have used this progression with Summer camp kids on the lake, Outward Bound students tacking class II whitewater on their second day of boating, and with adults simply looking for a fun experience on basic river moves. The system works well. In presenting it, I try to remember the adage: keep it short and sweet.

The bow paddler has just two turning strokes to learn: The Draw to move their end of the boat to their paddle side, and the cross bow draw to move their end of the boat the other direction. To eliminate mistakes, I like to teach the cross bow that has the T-grip elbow tucked tight against the body throughout the stroke. Even so, this stroke typically requires lots of review before the correct technique becomes instinctive.

 

The Stern paddler paddles on the opposite side of the boat and also has only two strokes to learn. The Stern Draw, and the Stern Pry. I teach the stern pry as a short 6” jab out from the stern of the boat. This is really nothing more than an active rudder, so people tend to pick it up quickly. I continue to work on technique to keep braking from being part of the stroke by keeping the T-grip vertical and starting with the blade plastered against the boat. The stern draw is a longer stroke, like the last two feet of a full forward sweep. Paddlers need to use their torso for the power. Watching the blade seems to help get the torso involved.

 

 

 

 

 

I like to get the paddlers practicing the basic motion of these strokes while in their boat on solid ground. I can stand at the bow, and help nudge the boat the direction the stroke will turn them. Once each paddler has their strokes mastered, we play a quick game where I point, and make them respond correctly as if to dodge an imaginary rock.

When they have those mastered, I teach both paddlers the forward stroke and briefly mention a back stroke.

Once we are on the water I review the same set of strokes with good technique: For each stroke I elaborate and review the technique essentials, since they feel a bit different on the water. I usually wait on technical details of the forward stroke until the paddlers have some directional control and can go relatively straight. Only then do I go into the details of a forward stroke: torso rotation to plant the tip of the blade far forward, relatively straight arms, and a vertical shaft.

Using these five strokes a team can become remarkably good paddlers. The bow paddler makes quick decisions about the route, and provides the power and pacing. The bow paddler is in charge of communicating their desired direction to the stern paddler, either by pointing, leading by strokes, or speaking. But I ask the bow paddler to also be in charge of good communication: in other words, turning around to speak or listen to their stern partner.

In the stern, the boat direction is priority. Frequently this means the beginning stern paddler must do nothing but correct with stern draws & stern prys to keep the boat on line. Power, and following the cadence of the bow paddler are secondary responsibilitys to the stern paddler, who is in charge of the general direction. When these general communication skills are followed, both paddlers work smoothly together and paddling a canoe is not difficult.

Running Dry

It is a beautiful, crisp spring day on your favorite run. So far you have stayed dry, as splashes from the choppy waves spray harmlessly aside. But around the corner is your nemeses, and the threat of bigger waves that could swamp you, dampen your spirits and make a swim much more likely. You wish it was easier to avoid swamping in the big waves.

There are several strategies to keeping your boat dry. Route choice is certainly the most common. Look for the ramp of smooth water through the drop, and paddle through this 'window' between the eddy line and the waves. Usually this window will be just off the side of the wave train. Stay on the shoulder of the waves until the waves are small enough for your boat to ride up and over.

If you end up in the waves, you may have to angle your boat 45 degrees to the wave and lean the boat to keep water from splashing in the downstream gunwale. This momentary boat tilt blocks water from coming in over the gunnel. Tilt the boat by lifting one knee, so your body remains balanced and centered over the boat.

Usually you will angle your canoe so your paddle is on the upstream side of the boat, partly for the comfort of the brace, and partly for the easy sweep that can straighten you out. Other times you will have your boat angled to block the waves with the paddle on the downstream side. In this case you use a bow draw to pull your boat over the wave and straight. Drift through the rapids like a cork while you turn or bounce your boat to block the tallest waves. Changing the trim of a boat can also improve its dryness.

River trippers, carrying heavy loads, use backferries to keep waves from crashing into their boats. This adjustment of speed is a good skill to have, but it shouldn't be your prime mode of staying dry or running rapids. Momentary backferries are great for a brief hesitation to find a dry line or to figure out a safer run. Backstrokes sometimes work as a last ditch effort to keep a wave from breaking over the bow.

These tricks will help you stay dry, when you would really rather not be soaked. But with a warm day, good paddling companions, and proper equipment, there is nothing wrong with plowing through a few huge waves. That can be a lot of fun. However, don't use river difficulty to measure your improvement. Instead, challenge yourself by making hard moves on easy rivers. This is how racers and all the really good boaters develop their skills. Matching your ability to appropriate rivers and rapids is the most important part of safe boating.

Sculling Draw

Perhaps you remember a time of frustration from trying to move your canoe sideways. Perhaps it was on a lake, trying to pull alongside a dock. Or perhaps it was on a river, trying to move further into an eddy to grab the security of the shore or a friends' boat. In either case, you were probably left with the same frustration as you felt learning to parallel park a car.

Moving sideways is a necessary, and often awkward skill for any type of canoeing. Canoes were meant to go straight, not sideways, so your strokes have to be very definitive to make the boat respond.

The basic way to move sideways is the draw stroke. Turn your torso to place the blade straight out from your hip. With both hands over the water, hold the top hand steady as you pull in the blade. Try for a good bite on the water, with the blade digging in deep. Then, pull in gently. Feather the blade 90 degrees to slice it out for the recovery.

Tilting your boat away slightly allows the boat to slide sideways more easily, but more importantly, it provides counterbalance so that both of your hands can get out over the water. This helps gets the blade positioned to pull the boat to the side, rather than push down on the surface.

The sculling draw accomplishes the same lateral movement of the boat, and improves your paddle control and finesse. Your goal is a maximum sideways pull on the boat, with a minimum resistance to moving the blade.

By practicing the sculling draw you'll get a good feel for how subtle changes in blade angle can help you. First work on basic sculling: gently move the blade along a 3-4 foot line six inches away from your boat, making sure to keep the shaft straight up and down. Gradually open the blade angle on the forward portion, then switch it so the leading edge is open as you bring the blade back. Don't try to pull in on the blade, or to apply too much force.

Do you have basic sculling mastered? Try these variations either alone or with your partner: sculling to pull the bow around,.. or to pull the stern. Try cross bow sculling with the same variations :sideways, to the bow and to the stern. If you have all that mastered, try sculling the other direction by reversing the blade angles.

With a little practice you will be able to "parallel park" effortlessly, and you will notice the rewards of better finesse.

Carve your Canoe Turns

Have you ever seen a really good paddler accelerate their boat into an eddy? They seem to make the boat move effortlessly, even during a gradual turn. The key is carving your turns so you can maintain your momentum in the direction you want to go.

Have you ever seen a really good paddler accelerate their boat into an eddy? They seem to make the boat move effortlessly, even during a gradual turn. The key is carving your turns so you can maintain your momentum in the direction you want to go.

This drill will help you learn to carve, and make better use of the natural tendency of a solo boat to veer in an arc. Paddle forward, and do a slight draw to start the boat veering to your paddling side. Then stroke only on that side, using very vertical strokes, with the blade almost under the boat. A little bit of boat tilt to the paddling side will help tighten up the turn.

You will feel the boat continue to turn toward the paddle side, despite forward strokes which would normally straighten the direction. You will learn to search for this turning sensation when you paddle, so you will need fewer corrections and be able to apply more force to the forward strokes.

Learning to do this drill has major benefits. First, it teaches you to paddle with a vertical paddle shaft. This reduces the number of corrections you have to do, and improves your acceleration power.

A second benefit is that forward stroking on the inside of the turn helps keep the boat from sideslipping. The main problem with sideslipping is that you are not maintaining the momentum of the boat in the direction you want to go. A carved turn will carry your momentum in the new direction.

Imagine that the water at the bow waterline is pushing your boat into a tighter and tighter turn, which you now can use to your benefit. You can keep applying forward power while your boat is turning towards your paddle side. The perfect place to use this is in onside eddy turns and peel outs. The boat lean is necessary anyway, and keeping the boat from sideslipping will make the turn more predictable and enjoyable.

The same carving turn is possible, but much harder on your offside. You need a narrow, responsive playboat, and a lot of flexibility to do the cross forward strokes. But with practice, you can do it and enjoy carving all your turns!

THE "J" Correction Stroke

The J is a great correction stroke to keep you going straight. Paddling longer distances, smoothly and with less effort, is easiest with the J stroke correction because the same face of the blade works throughout the forward stroke and correction. The J stroke is much smoother and ultimately faster than a rudder, or stern pry: but it has its limitations. The J is not very good for starting from a standstill, or for making sharp corrections, or for ferrying.

The J is a great correction stroke to keep you going straight. Paddling longer distances, smoothly and with less effort, is easiest with the J stroke correction because the same face of the blade works throughout the forward stroke and correction. The J stroke is much smoother and ultimately faster than a rudder, or stern pry: but it has its limitations. The J is not very good for starting from a standstill, or for making sharp corrections, or for ferrying.

In the J stroke, the top thumb of the T grip hand twists forward and down thus the power face of the blade works throughout the stroke. To learn the J, get your speed going with forward stroke and a pry correction, switch to the J, and try to go in circles towards your paddling side. When you have that mastered, increase the radius of your circles until you can go straight. Expect some difficulties tripping over the J until you get a feel for getting the J to catch.

To accelerate from a standstill it is often easiest to aim the boat towards your paddling side to avoid corrections on the first few strokes. Remember, the rudder/pry is often easier than a "J" for starting and for many moves on whitewater.

As you develop some experience and learn this basic stroke, you will be able to anticipate the boat turn, and correct before the boat really starts to spin. Don't waste energy trying to correct with stronger forward strokes.

The Frantic Side Switch

It is a fun, long set of riffles. The channel seems wide open, and the speed and splashes of the rapid enhance the fun you have been having. Suddenly you have a few rocks to avoid and without thinking you switch your paddle to the other side and slam in a back rudder stroke. Another rock looms ahead, and after another flurry of switching sides you slam in yet another inefficient back stroke. You made the moves, but the abrupt flurry of braking was a noticeable disruption to the flow of your paddling.

A common bad habit was the fault: indiscriminately switching sides. The problem is that if you always switch to make a move, you will take longer to develop a full repertoire of strokes. For instance, you are much less likely to develop a good stern pry to help you make it to the best surfing waves. Besides it is far more impressive to make a move on your off side.

On the other hand, occasionally switching sides while you paddle is perfectly okay. Switching helps you use different muscle groups, and develop a nice rhythm when you are going a long distance. In addition you get good forward power on each stroke, and you don't develop an offside.

Paddling on the upstream side makes it easier to get into eddies. It is especially nice to have your paddle on the upstream side in shallow areas, on the inside of a bend, or on the opposite side of a reaction wave.

I propose that you switch sides to make a move only on the hardest 5 or 6 major moves of a day's paddling, or, systematically approach your paddling so that you can do basic moves equally well on both sides. In any case a wild flurry of switching sides is inefficient and poor form. You need to find a personal balance between gaining temporary efficiency by switching sides, and developing a full repertoire of quality strokes on one side.

So what strokes need a tune up to help you avoid the Frantic Side Switch? In the next few issues, we will look at the best correction strokes: The Stern pry, stern draw, and the J stroke.

Going Straight: Correct at the Stern

You probably know the feeling of trying to go straight with a boat that seems to have a mind of its own. The boat spins into an ever tighter turn.

Good quality strokes at the stern will always correct this veering. Think of the front of the boat as being pushed into the turn, so you have to correct from the stern. With the bow lined up on a distant landmark, going straight only requires persistence, and a little anticipation. Armed with the stern pry, and the stern draw, you can turn in either direction.

The most powerful correction stroke is a well executed stern pry. A good stern pry starts with the blade plastered against the boat, towards the back of the boat, with the blade angle vertical for maximum bite. To get in this position, the thumb on your t-grip hand will be on top. Get the t-grip out over the water. The pry itself is a short 6" jab out to the side, using the gunnel as a fulcrum. This stroke is really effective!

Often it is best to pause until you feel pressure on the blade before initiating the pry motion. To make a major correction, do several very short prys.

Nearly half of all intermediate and advanced paddlers have poor stern prys. These are prys that stray too far from the boat, turn the blade flatter on the water, and have a general negative effect on forward speed. People get this bad habit because it feels less stable to have the blade in the correct position, which is far back and close to the boat.

Sometimes the result is that bow draws are overused: a paddler figures out, or is taught, that strokes at the stern are slowing them down. In truth, what slows them down are poor form stern strokes. Only when you have mastered efficient steering from the stern should you attempt correcting from the bow.

To correct the other direction, use a stern draw. The blade should travel in an arc to the stern, starting about two feet from the boat. In order to do this, both hands should stay below shoulder level. Make sure that the top of the blade remains submerged throughout the stroke.

Watch your blade sweep all the way to the back, to help involve your torso power. Pay close attention to the blade angle. Without your compensation, the blade has a tendency to twist at the end of the stroke, reducing its bite on the water. Transfer the power into your boat by pulling your hip towards the blade.

Learning to correct from the stern using these simple techniques will help you have more control and fun on the river.

Open Canoe Roll

Rolling has become a common skill for open boaters paddling continuous class III and harder rivers. Rolling saves the long swim, and keeps you in the relative safety of your boat.

When you first try to roll, you will probably focus on the paddle motion. This isn't the essence. Instead, the key is rolling the boat up with your lower body, while your the paddle supports the torso. Then your paddle helps you move up over the boat. Good rolling depends on this "hip and torso rotation," which is the torso and knee motion that rights the boat.

The best way to learn this is with your hands on the side of a pool, or resting in a friend's hands at water level. Put your head on your hands. To roll on the right, practice moving the boat through the full range of motion. Stretch your torso to the surface, at right angles to the boat, to wind up. Follow through by gently pressing your forehead towards the water and tugging up on your right knee. Try to minimize the force by being light, keeping your weight floating near the surface. Doing this effortlessly is a prerequisite to rolling with a paddle.

The low brace roll uses this same torso and knee motion. To learn the low brace roll try this easy system. First, float the paddle perpendicular to the boat on your paddle side. Then tip over towards your paddle, and curl your body up so you can grab the shaft. Really stretch your torso for the surface. Try to turn so both shoulders are near the surface, and over the shaft of the paddle. Your head, hand, and paddle blade should clear the surface before you start the rolling action.

Now drive your forehead down towards the shaft, push with your hand while you pull up on your right knee. Push down on your left knee. Starting with your shaft arm bent, and gradually straightening it will help give you a little extra power, but your body should do almost all the work. You might feel that this is very gradual, first pressing gently on the paddle for support, and when it starts to slip turning your torso and hips. Each step happens incrementally.

To finish, pull the T-grip across in front of your waist, while sweeping the blade forward. When the gunnel clears the surface, swing your head low and across the gunnel to the other side. Think of scratching your nose on each gunnel of the boat. People often spoil their roll by raising their head too soon.
Once you're rolling consistently on a low brace it's time to learn the set up. This way you can roll no matter which way you flip. The set-up is with your body tucked forward and the blade flat against the top of the boat, ready to swing with your body out to the side.

A good way to learn this is in a decked C-1, where the force required is typically less. Converting a decked C-1 roll to an open boat requires a little more force and a little slower roll.

Your boat design and outfitting can affect the ease of rolling. Outfitting should be snug, but allow easy escape when necessary. If you can slide your knees or butt more than 1 inch in any direction, your outfitting is probably too loose. Some boat designs and float bag configurations can make the boat get stuck partway upside down. When this happens, you'll need a short underwater sweep stroke to pull the boat completely upside down.

A closely related skill is the brace, which properly used can often save you from flipping in the first place. With some practice, you can develop a brace, a roll and save the hassle of the long swim.